Pochutla (above)hanging out in hammocks (below)
swimming with sea turtles...
our favorite place to eat
the coast and our cabaña
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Back in Oaxaca
Buenos dias!
So, we made it on the overnight bus - got here right on time this morning, actually 15 minutes early after a MUCH smoother ride. We both slept most of the way and apart from a few loud talkers the ride was really much smoother than any overnight flight or train ride I can remember. At this point, I think we can really honestly rave about the Mexican bus system. It is clean, affordable, comfortable, and safe. Truly an efficient way to get around, not just as a tourist (in fact, Mexicans seem to use the bus for long-distance travel a lot). Two thumbs up!
Now we're wondering through Oaxaca one last time (and spending time online, yes). Our flight back to Mexico City leaves at 7 pm and we'll get there at around 8.30 pm. That's really all for now. I'll try to upload some pictures now...
Adios...
So, we made it on the overnight bus - got here right on time this morning, actually 15 minutes early after a MUCH smoother ride. We both slept most of the way and apart from a few loud talkers the ride was really much smoother than any overnight flight or train ride I can remember. At this point, I think we can really honestly rave about the Mexican bus system. It is clean, affordable, comfortable, and safe. Truly an efficient way to get around, not just as a tourist (in fact, Mexicans seem to use the bus for long-distance travel a lot). Two thumbs up!
Now we're wondering through Oaxaca one last time (and spending time online, yes). Our flight back to Mexico City leaves at 7 pm and we'll get there at around 8.30 pm. That's really all for now. I'll try to upload some pictures now...
Adios...
Monday, May 26, 2008
No pain, no gain
Hola everyone!
We made it to the beach on Friday...after a HORRIFYING, nauseating, awful drive through the mountains. 14 of us plus luggage crammed into a minivan for 5.5 hours, driving up and down the mountains at scary speeds on curvy roads with steep cliffs left and right for a good 3.5 of those hours (I kid you not!). About half way into the drive we both took a Dramamine (thank God, otherwise we would have puked, absolutely no doubt). I don't think I have been this sick to my stomach in a long, long, long, long time. So when we got off that "bus", we knew, come hell or high water, we would not take that same route back. No way. Alternatives included renting a car and doing it on our own time (no car rental agency here, though) or taking the big overnight bus that takes the much longer, but supposedly drives on less curvy roads. Well, the latter option won and now we are getting ready to get on that 9 hour bus ride. Yay. It had better be less curvy, because the only thing worse than driving up and down mountains is to do so at night. Yikes.
The bad drive, however, was all worth it when we got to the coast. The climate had changed drastically, everything was a lot more tropical (i.e. hot) and we could smell the ocean in the air. Pochutla, the little town in which the bus dropped us off is still a good 40 minutes away from the actual coastal towns of Mazunte, Zipolite, and San Agustinillo. Since we wanted to do it the backpacking way all the way, we ended up taking a camioneta...a pickup truck that has been rebuilt to seat about 15 people in its bed. It cost 1/10th of a taxi ride and was certainly an experience (pictures to follow as soon as we come by a faster internet connection.) Once we got to the beach we knew it had all been worth it. Our cabaña was right by (!) the beach, with hammocks to hang out in and not too many tourists around (though that area has been known as a key place for backpackers to hang out in the past). We spent three nights here and the days pretty much only at the beach and in and on the water. Exciting (and scary) events included a scorpion on Patrick's leg (he reacted quickly and brushed it off, with no harm to anyone), fishing on a small fishing boat, and swimming with sea turtles (Mazunte has a bis sea turtle museum and research center). Just hanging out in hammocks and reading was divine after all the running and driving around of the past two weeks and the Oaxacan coast is certainly a place I'd love to come back to...if only it weren't for the pain it took to get here (either way you take, it seems, everyone there was complaining about the same thing...).
Now we are, as mentioned, back on our way to Oaxaca, from where we fly back to Mexico City tomorrow night. We'll spend another day in Mexico City before flying back to Tampa and Nashville on Thursday.
For now wish us luck for the busride and we'll hopefully be back with a faster internet connection and pictures tomorrow from Oaxaca (where we also have a full day inbetween arriving and leaving again).
Adios!
We made it to the beach on Friday...after a HORRIFYING, nauseating, awful drive through the mountains. 14 of us plus luggage crammed into a minivan for 5.5 hours, driving up and down the mountains at scary speeds on curvy roads with steep cliffs left and right for a good 3.5 of those hours (I kid you not!). About half way into the drive we both took a Dramamine (thank God, otherwise we would have puked, absolutely no doubt). I don't think I have been this sick to my stomach in a long, long, long, long time. So when we got off that "bus", we knew, come hell or high water, we would not take that same route back. No way. Alternatives included renting a car and doing it on our own time (no car rental agency here, though) or taking the big overnight bus that takes the much longer, but supposedly drives on less curvy roads. Well, the latter option won and now we are getting ready to get on that 9 hour bus ride. Yay. It had better be less curvy, because the only thing worse than driving up and down mountains is to do so at night. Yikes.
The bad drive, however, was all worth it when we got to the coast. The climate had changed drastically, everything was a lot more tropical (i.e. hot) and we could smell the ocean in the air. Pochutla, the little town in which the bus dropped us off is still a good 40 minutes away from the actual coastal towns of Mazunte, Zipolite, and San Agustinillo. Since we wanted to do it the backpacking way all the way, we ended up taking a camioneta...a pickup truck that has been rebuilt to seat about 15 people in its bed. It cost 1/10th of a taxi ride and was certainly an experience (pictures to follow as soon as we come by a faster internet connection.) Once we got to the beach we knew it had all been worth it. Our cabaña was right by (!) the beach, with hammocks to hang out in and not too many tourists around (though that area has been known as a key place for backpackers to hang out in the past). We spent three nights here and the days pretty much only at the beach and in and on the water. Exciting (and scary) events included a scorpion on Patrick's leg (he reacted quickly and brushed it off, with no harm to anyone), fishing on a small fishing boat, and swimming with sea turtles (Mazunte has a bis sea turtle museum and research center). Just hanging out in hammocks and reading was divine after all the running and driving around of the past two weeks and the Oaxacan coast is certainly a place I'd love to come back to...if only it weren't for the pain it took to get here (either way you take, it seems, everyone there was complaining about the same thing...).
Now we are, as mentioned, back on our way to Oaxaca, from where we fly back to Mexico City tomorrow night. We'll spend another day in Mexico City before flying back to Tampa and Nashville on Thursday.
For now wish us luck for the busride and we'll hopefully be back with a faster internet connection and pictures tomorrow from Oaxaca (where we also have a full day inbetween arriving and leaving again).
Adios!
Friday, May 23, 2008
Oaxaca
Thism morning, we're off to the beach...a 6-hour bus ride across the mountains (we have been warned that frequent puking-stops will be necessary...sounds like fun! Thank God I've got my Dramamine packed :)). We are both excited about the beach, so hopefully it will turn out to be all the relaxation we are hoping for. Though the last two weeks have been vacation, too, we have been on the road and on the move constantly. The last two days in Oaxaca have also not been the most relaxing days ever - the city is quite packed with people (likely for another demonstartion, for which Oaxaca is famous?) and LOUD, oh boy! Maybe it's not so much the city itself as the room we ended up with. The hostel (Hostel Paulina) is very nice & clean, it has a beautiful green yard and rooftop terrace and all, but their rooms happen to be out to the street, in the middle of the city center.... hence, you feel you are sleeping on the street. For two days, there has been constant (!) street noise of cars and people walking by, cars honking, buses accelerating, cars honking some more...and the guy across the street who is advertising his business by repeteatedly (by that I mean every 10-20 seconds, from 7 am to 11 pm) screaming something that to us sounds like "gecko". Fun.
Also, I (Lydia) have gotten my first round of anticipated digestive issues (TMI?)...we ahve been warned about it, but I think in my case it has a lot do to with eating irregularly and small portions (try to find something without meat here, especially if your Spanish is barely good enough to say hello and goodbye!). Thankfully, Oaxaca sees lots of tourists and their restaurants seem to cater more to gringo preferences - here you can get pasta, pizza, sandwiches with organic (and disinfected) lettuce, veggie soup (really, without meat!), etc.. Oaxaca is also famous for its chocolate, arts (which, chocolate here jsut might be), and crafts. We enjoyed some of all and will hopefully bring some of each home to share.
I've got to leave you now...it's time for breakfast (a nice, big breakfast with juice and fruit and all :)) and then the bus. Wish us luck for the ride. We shall report from the beach...given that we can find internet access there (we're going to some really tiny places...Mazunte & Zipolite should be on the map).
So then... Adios, once again...
Also, I (Lydia) have gotten my first round of anticipated digestive issues (TMI?)...we ahve been warned about it, but I think in my case it has a lot do to with eating irregularly and small portions (try to find something without meat here, especially if your Spanish is barely good enough to say hello and goodbye!). Thankfully, Oaxaca sees lots of tourists and their restaurants seem to cater more to gringo preferences - here you can get pasta, pizza, sandwiches with organic (and disinfected) lettuce, veggie soup (really, without meat!), etc.. Oaxaca is also famous for its chocolate, arts (which, chocolate here jsut might be), and crafts. We enjoyed some of all and will hopefully bring some of each home to share.
I've got to leave you now...it's time for breakfast (a nice, big breakfast with juice and fruit and all :)) and then the bus. Wish us luck for the ride. We shall report from the beach...given that we can find internet access there (we're going to some really tiny places...Mazunte & Zipolite should be on the map).
So then... Adios, once again...
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Puebla
After a smooth, though less luxurious, bus ride we got here lst night at around 8 pm. Our hotel is fine, a few block away from the city center, or zócalo. This time the owners seem a lot more laissez-faire than in previous places we have stayed (the lock to the room is slightly broken, but alas; when we got there the owner took us through 3 rooms before he found the one that was actually ready; light and warm water don't really work, etc.). Today we took the somewhat chilly and cloudy day to explore the old colonial town of Puebla, which is famous for its tiles and mole sauces (a sauce with 30+ ingredients, among them chilis and chocolate). The city is vibrant and has a distinct European feel to it. Other than that, there really isn't too much to report at this point. It's been a slow day, really. Tomorrow morning we're heading on to Oaxaca... a place about which we have heard lots and lots of good stories and are both very excited. More from there, then...and more pictures again, perhaps!?
Hope all is well in your part(s) of the world...
Adios!
Hope all is well in your part(s) of the world...
Adios!
Monday, May 19, 2008
Taxco
So, yesterday we got to Taxco, an old silver-mining town southwest of Mexico City. We took the bus (the most luxurious bus I have ever been on - and all for $10!) and got here in about 2.5 hours. After the hustle and bustle of the big city, this tiny little place was just what we needed. Walking around the city center takes a mere 15 minutes (though the actual city spreads all over the nearby mountains) - unless you stop at the hundreds of silver-selling places. Supposedly, this is one of the epicenters of handcrafted silver jewelry in the world. The hotel we stayed at - Mi Casita - couldn´t have been better. A sweet old house on the side of a mountain, very tastefully restored and decorated. We only stayed for a night and as beautiful as Taxco is, we believe it was a good decision for us to head on today to the old colonial and Volkswagen production city Puebla. The bus leaves at 4 pm this afternoon and we should get there by about 8 or 8.30 at night. For now, however, some Taxco impressions. More from Puebla or Oaxaca (we´re headed there on Wednesday)...
La Casa De Los Amigos
If you ever need a place to stay in Mexico City - this is it! This Quaker Peace House is not your ordinary youth hostel. It hosts people from all over the world, mostly those looking for a quiet place in the middle of the city and like-minded people. It organizes daily meetings and discussions that people can participate in and provides lots of volunteer opportunities. The breakfast they offer is amazing - a truly welcoming and great place! (More details in the latest Lonely Planet Mexico.)
Friday, May 16, 2008
Mexico City
Greetings from Mexico City, everyone! We got here safely yesterday afternoon and after standing in line for immigration for what seemed like an eternity, we actually grabbed a taxi and made it to the city center to our Quaker hostel. First impressions are exactly what you would expect them to be (we assume): The city is HUGE, overwhelming, vibrant, intense, sometimes very noisy and chaotic, sometimes very quiet and quaint. Traffic is a NIGHTMARE.
After a yummy breakfast here at the Casa de los Amigos, we we spent the entire day today walking around. In a city this size that is no small task, as you can iamgine. Our feet are officially on fire - we must have walked close to 10 miles, if not more. Our hostel is close to the center of the city center, so we walked there, saw the National Palace and some of Diego Riveras' finest art, along with some other fine architecture and art before hitting our first tacoteria: Patrick ate tacos, I ate quaesedillas ... none of which were anything like those we knew from the States, but yummy, indeed. We then found a GIGANTIC pastry shop - make that a pastry warehouse - where we pigged out for dessert. On a sugar-and-taco-high we continued on to our first subway ride. I admit, I went in with some trepidations, but it ended up being like any other subway system in the world - only cheaper. (A ride costs merely 20 cents each.) Nothing here is airconditioned, so the crowded subway was certainly interesting. We got out at a nice southern neighborhood of the city - the same where Leon Trotsky and Frida Kahlo had their houses. We saw neither of them today on the inside, but firmly plan on returning tomorrow. The neighborhood (Coyoacan) was described as well-off, artsy, ecclectic and quaint...all of which were true. We stopped for a coffee, walked across some markets and along parks before taking the even-more-crowded subway back to the city center. We spent the evening resting and walking around some more, before sitting down to read and write. We will soon call it a day, I am sure. Tomorrow we plan to go to the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon (Teotihuacan) - we shall report more then (assuming the internet cooperates). On Sunday we are heading on to the silver capital of Taxco (west of here, in the mountains), then Puebla (southeast of here), then Oaxaca (south of here), then some Pacific beaches, and back here to Mexico City for a day before flying back home. But...tright now that is far away and hopefully we can write a bit from each of those.
Overall, we feel happy here - it is an exciting place to be, indeed! The only thing we are sad about is our lack of Spanish. It makes travelling so much more exciting to be able to have a conversation with locals - unless that is possible I feel one can never really fully experience a place. So, if and when we return, that will be a definite self-imposed prerequisite. No excuses.
But for now: Buenas noches.
Hopefully I will get a chance to upload some pictures soon... stay tuned...
Adios!
After a yummy breakfast here at the Casa de los Amigos, we we spent the entire day today walking around. In a city this size that is no small task, as you can iamgine. Our feet are officially on fire - we must have walked close to 10 miles, if not more. Our hostel is close to the center of the city center, so we walked there, saw the National Palace and some of Diego Riveras' finest art, along with some other fine architecture and art before hitting our first tacoteria: Patrick ate tacos, I ate quaesedillas ... none of which were anything like those we knew from the States, but yummy, indeed. We then found a GIGANTIC pastry shop - make that a pastry warehouse - where we pigged out for dessert. On a sugar-and-taco-high we continued on to our first subway ride. I admit, I went in with some trepidations, but it ended up being like any other subway system in the world - only cheaper. (A ride costs merely 20 cents each.) Nothing here is airconditioned, so the crowded subway was certainly interesting. We got out at a nice southern neighborhood of the city - the same where Leon Trotsky and Frida Kahlo had their houses. We saw neither of them today on the inside, but firmly plan on returning tomorrow. The neighborhood (Coyoacan) was described as well-off, artsy, ecclectic and quaint...all of which were true. We stopped for a coffee, walked across some markets and along parks before taking the even-more-crowded subway back to the city center. We spent the evening resting and walking around some more, before sitting down to read and write. We will soon call it a day, I am sure. Tomorrow we plan to go to the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon (Teotihuacan) - we shall report more then (assuming the internet cooperates). On Sunday we are heading on to the silver capital of Taxco (west of here, in the mountains), then Puebla (southeast of here), then Oaxaca (south of here), then some Pacific beaches, and back here to Mexico City for a day before flying back home. But...tright now that is far away and hopefully we can write a bit from each of those.
Overall, we feel happy here - it is an exciting place to be, indeed! The only thing we are sad about is our lack of Spanish. It makes travelling so much more exciting to be able to have a conversation with locals - unless that is possible I feel one can never really fully experience a place. So, if and when we return, that will be a definite self-imposed prerequisite. No excuses.
But for now: Buenas noches.
Hopefully I will get a chance to upload some pictures soon... stay tuned...
Adios!
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Florida
Ganz fix, ehe es morgen nach Mexiko losgeht. Wir haben die letzten paar Tage hier in Tampa, Florida bei Patricks Grosseltern verbracht nachdem wir erfolgreich mit dem Auto aus Tennessee hierher gefahren sind. Bei 30 Grad und Sonnenschein war es leicht, ein paar nette Tage zu haben. Patricks Grosseltern haben uns verwoehnt und wir haben uns die Stadt und die vielen Straende angesehen. Angebadet haben wir auch - das erste Mal im Golf von Mexico (fuer mich). Anbei ein paar Fotos. Morgen geht's nach Mexico City. Ob wir da Internet haben, weiss ich nicht, aber ich versuch mein Bestes, mich zu melden...
Also dann... auf bald & wie immer liebe Gruesse...
Before we leave for Mexico tomorrow, a quick note from Tampa. We spent the last few days here after successfully driving down from Nashville. With 80+ degrees and sunshine it has been easy to spend a few great days here. Patrick's grandparents have been fantastic and spoiling us rotten :) Together we explored Tampa and St. Petersburg along with the many beautiful beaches around here. Both of us got our first chance to go swimming this year (my first time swimming in the Gulf of Mexico). Below are a few pics... Tomorrow we are off to Mexico City. Not sure how much internet access we will have, but we will do our best to keep you posted.
Until then... best wishes to "y'all"...
In Tallahassee
St. Petersburg & Fort De Soto Beach, Florida
Also dann... auf bald & wie immer liebe Gruesse...
***
Before we leave for Mexico tomorrow, a quick note from Tampa. We spent the last few days here after successfully driving down from Nashville. With 80+ degrees and sunshine it has been easy to spend a few great days here. Patrick's grandparents have been fantastic and spoiling us rotten :) Together we explored Tampa and St. Petersburg along with the many beautiful beaches around here. Both of us got our first chance to go swimming this year (my first time swimming in the Gulf of Mexico). Below are a few pics... Tomorrow we are off to Mexico City. Not sure how much internet access we will have, but we will do our best to keep you posted.
Until then... best wishes to "y'all"...
In Tallahassee
St. Petersburg & Fort De Soto Beach, Florida
Thursday, May 08, 2008
Before we leave...
...a few pictures from the spring in our yard. When we come back we expect it to be in full bloom ;-)
We're off to Nashville in the morning, Tampa on Sunday, Mexico City on Thursday. We'll be in touch as much and as often as possible. Promise.
So, here are some pictures:
1. Our vegetable & herb bed (currently growing onions, parsnip, peppers, eggplant, squash, tomatoes, radishes, mint, chives, basil, and lemongrass)
We're off to Nashville in the morning, Tampa on Sunday, Mexico City on Thursday. We'll be in touch as much and as often as possible. Promise.
So, here are some pictures:
1. Our vegetable & herb bed (currently growing onions, parsnip, peppers, eggplant, squash, tomatoes, radishes, mint, chives, basil, and lemongrass)
2. My lavender baby (with rosemary in the front)
3. Our new ferns out front
4. Lots of future strawberries...
5. ...and our very first homegrown strawberry :)
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